kauai

Fire on the Hill

What we assumed would be another day at the beach turned out to be the exact opposite. The tropical sun hung high in the azure sky as though it were a yellow yoyo suspended from a length of string connecting it to a fluffy white cloud. From our vantage point on the cliff, Kalapaki Bay offered its unbeatable ocean view. On the walk to the beach, just beyond the Pali Kai security gate closure, Gerald suddenly glanced backward, as if on instinct. Thick plumes of gray-blue smoke appeared to be pouring from the row of seaside cliff houses into the bay directly beyond the Lincoln condo. In an instant, we pivoted on our heels and headed in the direction of the smoke. As far as we knew, some of the cliff houses were not yet occupied for the winter months. This caused concern in our eyes…and dread as to what lie ahead. Passing each place brought relief, followed by curiosity. What was on fire? And where were the fire trucks? Finally, at the end of the road, where the cliff sharply drops off to a lighthouse beacon surrounded by jutting black lava mounds, the plumes of heavy smoke thickened like fog. Down the sandy path banked by tall dry grasses, past the 6th hole of the resort golf course, the sea turned a lush green. Unfortunately today, the sky appeared a hypnotic smoky grey color. As if from the depths of Hell, suffocating smoke plumes intensified like smog. Suddenly, the bleating, looping wail of sirens signaled help was on the way. A city fire truck followed by a reserve water tanker dispensed a crew of experienced firefighters to access the situation and quickly get it under control. In a marginal amount of time they had it sized up, contained, and extinguished. The investigating officer took it from there. 

Dining Outside the Home: JJ’s Broiler in Lihue, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: JJ’s Broiler in Lihue, Kauai!  When visiting a tropical island, it’s not unusual to expect fresh fish daily as well as locally-grown ingredients. Open the menu at JJ’s Broiler and see. “Voted Island’s Best” Fish and Chips is a natural choice, in my opinion. A generous platter of Pacific Mahi Mahi engulfed in a crispy beer batter coating is paired with seasoned french fries for a salty crunch that does not disappoint. The house tartar sauce is a nice complement. Take advantage of the spectacular ocean view. Dine on the outdoor terrace for an open-air experience. Ignore the feathered friends wandering around. They simply cannot resist a crumb or two that has fallen to the ground. 

Dining Outside the Home: Gaylord’s at Kilohana in Lihue, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: Gaylord’s at Kilohana in Lihue, Kauai!  Nothing compares to an enchanting plantation sprawling with cool island breezes, fragrant foliage, flirting dragonflies, and a tropical Hawaiian buffet that’s easy like Sunday morning. Gaze upon the lush landscape where children frolic, beyond the terrace, on the estate lawn. Romantic music fills the air with cello music soothing the soul that can make a wise man weep; especially Pachelbel’s Canon in D which brings back memories of wedding day bliss. Who hasn’t felt that before? Kudos to Diane Rubio for being spot on. Gaylord’s Sunday Brunch offers healthy farm fresh selections as well as Polynesian favorites. Choose wisely. Whatever the craving, pace yourself. The bounty continues long after you’ve had your fill. 

This is Where it All Began for the Old Kōloa Sugar Mill

Take a step back in time, circa 1800, where a lush and fertile land along the southern coast of Kauai housed a sugar plantation that sustained an entire island. The Old Kōloa Sugar Mill was born. King Kamehameha III reigned supremely when Christian missionaries came with a message to share. Because the Native Hawaiians preferred fishing and living off the land, it was necessary to maintain a sustainable workforce. Thus, Chinese flocked to Kauai to work, in addition to Japanese, Koreans, and Filipinos. The Old Sugar Mill of Kōloa quickly relocated from the town to 980 acres near a waterfall and seaport. At the current site it became a large-scale industry, producing 225,000 tons of sugar in 1898. “This is where it all began” is splashed across the rusted and decaying abandoned storage bin as a reminder that everything must come to an end. Now what stands is a shell of deteriorating remains. Still, 161 years is a good run. 

Dining Outside the Home: Garden Island Grille in Old Kōloa Town, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: Garden Island Grille in Old Kōloa Town, Kauai!  Ramble down the boardwalk of Old Kōloa Town to where you see remnants of the theatre that once was the social gathering spot of the community. Follow the signs to the Garden Island Grille which now occupies an old plantation site some still believe is visited by lingering spirits. Now a restaurant that specializes in seafood and fresh island fish, the Garden Island Grille features fresh island-grown products, including organic cocktails. Sample the Seared Ahi seasoned with volcanic spices and pickled ginger. Move on to the fish tacos, lightly grilled corn tortilla shells stuffed with the catch of the day, shredded cabbage, and chipotle-lime sauce. Yum. Stick around for the live entertainment. It’s worth another round of plum sugar-rimmed margaritas. 

Dining Outside the Home: Scorpacciata Food Truck in Lawai, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: Scorpacciata Food Truck in Lawai, Kauai.  One of the advantages of eating at a food truck is its mobility. Food trucks are specialty restaurants on wheels. They can pop up anytime and anyplace there’s a gathering or private party. For those who are curious about the name, Scorpacciata, it is Italian for bellyful, overeating, and binge eating. I don’t know about you, but for me that definition sums it up nicely. Perhaps that is why the menu is stuffed full of Neapolitan Pizzas! For example, the Fig and Pig Pizza is made with smoked bacon, fig jam, balsamic reduction sauce, mozzarella cheese, and fresh basil. Now that’s what I call “Score-potch-chee-yatta!” Grazie!

The Return of Nippon Maru: A Japanese Sailing Vessel

Standing on the shore, gazing out to sea, if you looked hard, put an open palm across your brow, and really squinted, you could see it. Like a mirage in the desert, it seemed to appear before fading into hazy white light. Blink. There is was again. Beyond reason, if seeing is believing, then it had to be a ghost ship of some sort, gliding back and forth on the horizon, but never approaching land. Until it did. A military intelligence service veteran, standing on the jetty wall of Nawiliwili Harbor, proclaimed “She’s actually coming in.” The Nippon Maru II, a 1930 four-masted Japanese training vessel, was about to dock after 21 long days at sea. The last time it had visited the island of Kauai was in 1983. As if awestruck, tourists and Native Hawaiians stood as still as marble statues. They gaped in wonder when the buoyant museum slid into Pier 2. The familiar white rectangular flag, with a bright red disc in the center, identified its country with pride. Word is after its return to Japan in 1984, it became a permanent landmark docked in Yokohama Harbor. During its service, it had logged over 45 trips around the world and brought up 11,500 cadets. Historical. Just as gallantly as the Nippon Maru II arrived, two days later, the prestigious training ship with its four giant masts, solid wooden decks, and thick knotted ropes guided its way back out to sea. The energetic sailors, dressed in crisp white uniforms, scaled the nautical rope ladders with ease. From every position they heartily waved their arms at the crowd. Shouts and cheers of farewell billowed on the trade winds. Then with imperial majesty, the Nippon Maru II slid out of sight without ever unfurling its mighty sails. 

Dining Outside the Home: Café Portofino in Lihue, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: Café Portofino in Lihue, Kauai!  A hidden Italian gem sits above the beach on Kalapaki Bay where a sunset panoramic view sets the stage for an unforgettable evening. Familiar romantic love songs gently rise from the strings of a harp. The candlelit atmosphere for dining al fresco is further complimented by savory aromas of old Italian favorites. Choose a rich creamy pasta, minestrone soup, calamari fritti, and tiramisu dessert guaranteed to pamper the taste buds. No need to rush. This is Italy. Sit back, relax, and absorb the ambience. 

Dining Outside the Home: Hā Coffee Bar in Lihue, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: Hā Coffee Bar in Lihue, Kauai!  Now here is a coffee shoppe with a mission statement. Hā means “breath”, a description of island culture. It’s about the ohana community, or family, of people who choose to work together in unity. At Hā Coffee Bar you’ll find coffee, tea, and local-sourced goods. Coffee-lovers may choose between whole bean, espresso, cold brewed, pour over, and french press coffee. The atmosphere is conducive for interaction. Make yourself at home in a comfy chair, or choose a rustic table with a window view, or slide up to the communal wooden table below the vaulted ceiling fan. Sit and sip. Support the environment, support the culture, support the community. We’re all in this together. Everyone is welcome.