island

To Each His Own

Some people come to the beach to play volleyball all afternoon while bystanders cheer them on. Others hit the waves carrying poly-constructed surfboards with barking dogs in tow. Every now and then an ageless couple is seen strolling hand in hand with waves tickling their ankles in every step as a dedicated jogger passes them by. From grandparents to teenagers to toddlers, the crescent-mooned shoreline is dotted with primitive sand castles and elaborate sculptures, each one a masterpiece to the artist who creates it. Yellow, red, and orange umbrellas promise shade with lingering sea breezes when the tropical sun becomes relentless. As I glance up from my enticing paperback novel, take a sip of raspberry iced tea, I notice a middle-aged man standing chest high in waves smoking a Kauaiian cigar while staring longingly out to sea. Tell me now, what is your idea of Paradise on Earth?

Up, Up, and Away

Ascending miles above the town on hairpin curves, where the air turned thin and cool, we wound our way to the Waimea Canyon Lookout Point towering 3400 feet above sea level. At the edge of the parking lot, an ambitious entrepreneur set up an umbrella-shaded fruit stand. Dozens of cardboard crates were piled high with fresh cut bananas, avocados, passion fruit (lilikoi), mangos, dragon fruit, and pineapples, plus a refreshing natural juice bar was on hand. We absorbed the vibrant colors and ripe aromas for a few moments before continuing on. An uphill climb on a concrete footpath led us to the crest of the lookout where we received the most amazing surprise! “It’s a rainbow!”, I exclaimed from the ridge-top formation. Dividing the sky in half, between rugged mountain formations and low lying clouds, was the most brilliant arc of light illuminating the scene. Without a doubt the landscape before us was a celestial masterpiece beyond human sensibility. We stood there in awe….and then took countless photographs until it dissipated into thin air. 

Discover the Sandwich Islands 

Often you find yourself looking so hard for something that is standing in plain sight. The elusive Captain James Cook monument appeared right under our noses in the business district of Waimea Town. Knowing Cook was the first European to arrive upon Hawaiian soil in 1778, we had been logically searching for the historical marker near the water’s edge in a small county park during our previous visits. Suddenly, there he was standing erect between the parking lot and main road. Talk about feeling foolish. While Gerald kept the car running, I jumped out and snapped a couple of shots of the guy who named Kauai and Oahu “The Sandwich Islands”. 

Once a Film Location; Always a Destination 

Driving west on the island, the scenery changes dramatically from sandy beach to mountain peaks. We made a pit stop in the historical village called Hanapepe, which literally means “crushed bay” in Hawaiian due to the landslides occurring over time. I had my mind set on buying a miniature bamboo rolling pin to match the one I got there three years ago. It’s something I could imagine using in Gail’s Kitchen back home. Mission accomplished. A quick walk about in this sleepy little town told us people come and go as frequently as businesses do, while the old-timers hang on remembering better days. Time passes slowly where locals revel in library cards and starving artists try to close a sale slashing prices for more wall space. Once a film location for “The Thornbirds”, now a destination for always.

Dining Outside the Home: Duke’s Canoe Club and Barefoot Bar in Lihue, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Duke’s Canoe Club and Barefoot Bar in Lihue, Kauai! Put the lime in the coconut and eat it all up. Crispy Coconut Shrimp covered in spicy lilikoi sauce is an ALOHA favorite from the pupu menu at Duke’s. This casual restaurant sits at the edge of Kalipaki Bay with an oceanfront view in honor of the native Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku. He was a six-time Olympic champion who made the sport of surfing real at the age of 21. Nowadays people flock to the restaurant for food, spirits, music, and the infamous Hula Pie! 

Dining Outside the Home: Hukilau Lanai in Kapaa, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Hukilau Lanai in Kapaa, Kauai. A table for two was nestled against the nontraditional Hawaiian pine tree whose vivid boughs were as feathery as ringlets on a toddler’s head. Golden pineapple ornaments dangled in scattered formation among exotic hula dancers and bamboo ukuleles while background music played softly overhead. The master chef’s menu for the night before Christmas presented itself with a culinary experience long remembered.

Water Spouts on the Horizon 

“The whales are out! I’ll bring some binoculars to your table,” exclaimed the casually dressed blue-eyed waiter in flip-flops as he offered us two menus. It was “Happy Hour” at the Beachwalk Restaurant and Grill on the east side of the island and Markus wasn’t referring to the side effects of their signature Bloody Mary cocktails. He was all-Kauaiian native with his ivory-carved octopus medallion choker and long dark hair tied back into a knot at the nape of his neck. 
Humpback whales can be seen from shore at any number of locations around Kauai, but peak season is during the winter months of January and February when most of the calving occurs for them to mate and birth their young in the warm, tropical waters. It was a little premature for their inaugural appearance, but we still caught a glimpse of their water spouts on the horizon. 
Presently, we had a nice balcony front-row seat for watching seaside activities. When the humpback whales refused to make another appearance, we simply observed a class of elementary schoolchildren participating in Field Day activities as tag-team cheers exploded from the sidelines. 
Roosters with bright red combs and plumed tail feathers strutted back and forth demanding attention until an ambitious tourist tried to capture their images on film. Only then would they kick up their taloned feet and strut away crowing a “cock-a-doodle doo” in defiance. 
By now the famed fish and chips entree had appeared and we both sunk our teeth into the depths of pinnacle exclamatory utterance, practically rolling our eyes back in culmination. If this wasn’t a taste of Heaven, then we had no idea what was.   
We sat there until the afternoon delivery of sweet onions, fresh garlic, and garden produce arrived and our appetite had long been sated. Five bamboo swizzle sticks scattered topsy-turvey on the signature cocktail napkins were all the evidence left remaining of an afternoon spent in open-air tropical bliss and latter day delight. 

King of the Island

A speckled rooster crowed as he strutted around the beach chairs with head held high acting as though he were “King of the Island” and we were all expected to clap our hands in applause at being in the mere presence of him. Slowly and methodically a hunchback wiry old man with a weather-beaten brow sauntered toward the cedar shelter, his gait slow, wearing nautical swim trunks. A full-face snorkeling mask was dangling loosely around his neck. Each step reminded him of how he had taken his vitality and physical strength for granted only a few years ago. The crashing waves of high tide seemed more of a challenge this morning than he initially thought. 

Some Like it Hot

Some Like It Hot!  The Hotel del Coronado, a famous resort on the island of Coronado, greets visitors with its iconic red turrets sitting high above the sea. Whether you stroll along the winding boardwalk where sand meets wave or pause in the shade of the expansive veranda for a sip of lemonade, time seems to stand still. And then it begins; that feeling of nostalgia when legendary film stars like Marilyn Monroe created waves of excitement. As though hypnotic, the air fills with wonderment and awe.