island

Dining Outside the Home: Eating House 1849 in Poipu, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Eating House 1849 in Poipu, Kauai. Paying homage to one of the first restaurants on the island in the mid 19th century was easy. Hawaii’s abundant blend of local flavor came from neighboring farmers, fishermen, and ranchers. And it’s still true today. If you build it, they will come. Word of mouth sent us on a quest for the Hapa Burger. Never heard of it? Me either. It’s a combination of grilled lean beef, wild boar, and Portuguese sausage. The robust burger is built with a mountain of condiments that require two skewers to contain it for that first juicy bite. You may appreciate a swig of Moscow Mule served in a frosted copper mug to wash things down. The seasoned edamame snackers provided a salty crunch before dinner arrived. A respectable nod goes to Peter Fernandez, one of the original culinary chefs from 1849. His inspirational quote is painted on the wall. It says, “Esposa feliz, vida feliz”, which means “Happy wife, happy life.” Truer words were never spoken. 

Dining Outside the Home: The Dolphin Restaurant, Fish Market and Sushi Lounge in Poipu, Kauai

Dining Outside the Home: The Dolphin Restaurant, Fish Market and Sushi Lounge in Poipu, Kauai. We accidentally found a pleasant diversion on Kauai’s South Shore one afternoon while waiting for another restaurant to open their doors for dinner. The sunny lanai at The Dolphin Restaurant offered outdoor seating for a magnificent sunset and nostalgic ambience where people mingled in relaxed conversation. Fragrant tropical flowers soften the nautical theme splashed throughout. We wet our whistles on a tasty Ginger Rita infused with Grand Marnier. The shrimp appetizer, from local waters, was served with a homemade cocktail sauce to spice things up a bit. This place definitely deserves a double-take. 

On Golden Pond: The Nā Pali Coast

For the biggest white gold sandy beach in Kauai, offering a panoramic view from sea to coast, you must be determined to make the road trip real. Everything is fine until you hit the state park sign at the end of Highway 50. The arrow points west and promises to be nothing less than tough for another four miles. I have witnessed discouraged tourists reverse direction and head back to solid ground. I have also witnessed rental cars broken down. The old sugar cane road is unpaved, extremely bumpy with deep ruts, and a single lane trail of sand at best. And that’s if it hasn’t rained in awhile. But the adventurous spirit must know no bounds. You know you have arrived when the landscape beyond the windshield joins mountain and beach in an unforgettable breath-taking view. Forget cell phone coverage. Radio station signals are nil. And unless you park at the end, beyond Queen’s Pond, no facilities are available. On the endlessly long and wide beach, sweeping sand dunes and clusters of lava rock, are washed with powerful white-capped waves that roar like a coalition of male lions. And this is Paradise. You have arrived!

Dining Outside the Home: Kalaheo Café and Coffee Company in Kalaheo, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Kalaheo Café and Coffee Company in Kalaheo, Kauai. “Aloha. Please pick up a menu, choose a table where you wish to dine, and then come up to the counter to place your order. You’re in coffee country now”, chirped an energetic waitress in corked platform heels. From the ship-lapped walls to the peak of the cathedral ceiling, this upcountry café featured oodles of local art. And the aromas kick-started my taste buds for a hearty breakfast. The House Specialty boasted the “Bagel Benny” in a single or double serving. My heartstrings were pulling me toward the bakery items where the griddle wafted the essence of vanilla buttermilk pancakes. Add fresh fruit and two slices of meat. Yes, please!

Delta Dawn Tug-of-War

Warm ocean waters dance with a cool mountain stream at the tidal mouth of the bay. Unusual, yet captivating. This tug-of-war between salt water and fresh water changes the landscape of the beach every single day leaving one to wonder if the results were sculpted by a gigantic sandman while you were sleeping. Be aware. The waves from the sea in this spot are driven by the surf and the rainwater from the wettest mountain range on the island is powered by gravity. Oftentimes, the point where the two collide creates a momentary whirlpool. Entertaining to watch before the freshwater current rides the waves back out to sea. The bank is no different than a sand castle. It may leave you with a false sense of security believing the beach is more solid than it appears. One step can crumble the wall like squeezing the water out of a sponge. Another may leave you off balance sinking up to your knees in a quicksand-like soft bottom. Either way, it’s an enigma worth beholding. 

Dining Outside the Home: Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza and Burgers in Poipu, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza and Burgers in Poipu, Kauai. Sitting at a table for two on the porch of an old Hawaiian plantation sets the tone for regional “farm to table” dining. The expectation of fresh, locally grown ingredients raises the bar even higher. One look at the menu tells you this is going to be an unique dining experience. Although casual, the portion was generous in the mile-high B.K.E. Burger. The beef was medium, as requested, with shredded Kalua pork on top, layered with caramelized onions and house-made Kim Chee for a kick of spice, and lastly, crowned with an egg over easy. Oh, did I mention aged cheddar cheese and romaine lettuce? I had to walk around the shopping center afterwards just to let my stomach settle. (I finished the entire artisan gourmet burger, then wiped my mouth with the blue-striped cotton napkin.) Oink-a-doodle-moo!

Not Your Ordinary Message on the Beach

Torn from a page in a spiral notebook was a handwritten note in purple ink. It read, 
“Dear Love, You are beautiful. If the shoe fits, wear it. 😇 This is for you straight from Heaven. God Bless You Always! 😇❤️😇”

The jewel-toned sandals were an extraordinary treasure that magically appeared overnight. Could they be left there by an angelic sea nymph? The crescent-shaped bay, although public, seems like a private beach for leisurely walks, sand castle creations, paddle boarding, and sunbathing. Sometimes the water is as calm as a lake; other times the waves are strong enough to make you stumble. The sand is sugar-fine, raked smooth, and gentle on the feet. Once in awhile, sea shells and broken coral appear overnight to remind you the tide changes daily leaving unexpected treasures behind. Like today. The inner child can hardly contain the curiosity and discovery of something left behind after high tide. At the end of the beach where the cliff meets the bank, random driftwood and polished sea shells, added to the mysterious appearance of a thoughtful treasure. Was I the gracious recipient of Cinderella’s beach slippers, you wonder? Not this time. Alas, I don’t wear a size 7. 

Quiet Zone: Do Not Disturb 

“It was like walking through a library,” I mused. Two minutes earlier Gerald and I took a shortcut through a coconut grove of vacationers. We just finished our daily routine of clocking miles along the sandy seashore. Needing shade and a drink of cold water, we made a beeline from the beach to the nearest coconut grove. Under the shade of palm fronds, chair after chair of resort loungers were filled, facing the sea for an up close and personal oceanfront view. Except for one thing. Every chair occupied seemed to accommodate a reading enthusiast. Heads were bowed deep in thought with attention focused on Kindle Fires, paperback novels, cell phones, daily newspapers, and glossy magazines. Not a single person noticed us until I said, “Oh, that breeze feels nice.” Then one clearly annoyed woman tore herself from the book she was reading, threw me a stern look, pursed her lips, and practically raised her index finger to her lips. (Sshh) The message in that steely gaze commanded silence. At that exact moment the feeling hit me. “It’s like walking through a library.” Three steps later Gerald and I set foot on the smooth walkway leading to the spectacular outdoor pool where adults were laughing, children were splashing, and the air was filled with music and glee. We had exited the Quiet Zone. 

Blame it on the VOG

“Don’t worry, it’s the VOG,” chirped Gina, our island friend, as she hugged me tight when we met. I was hesitant to get too close since I had developed a very congested cough that required relief from the drug store shelf. “El Niño reversed the trade winds so we’re getting the volcanic ash from the big island,” she went on to explain. Gerald and I had noticed a white milky haze atop the mountain range a couple days ago. Thinking it was fog, similar to what we experienced on the mainland, we never gave it a second thought during our outdoor water activities. We continued to walk along the beach, relax around the pool, and explore the island. To our dismay, we learned no one is exempt from the clutches of the VOG. Islanders suffer from bouts of respiratory ailments, difficulty breathing, headaches,and sleepless nights whenever the trade winds reverse their course. Although Kauai is 305 miles away from the active volcano, it occasionally falls victim to VOG leaving tourists feeling lethargic wondering if they came into contact with a cold virus. In actuality, it’s the result of a chemical reaction between volcanic ash, smog, and weather conditions. Symptoms improve by drinking plenty of water to clear the body of toxins as well as remaining indoors where air-conditioning is available. So, in conclusion, we blamed it on the VOG. By the weekend relief came, as promised, in the moderate trade winds. 

“Dense vog as seen from Hilo Bay, Hawaiʻi. Vog is a form of air pollution that results when sulfur dioxide and other gases and particles emitted by an erupting volcano react with oxygen and moisture in the presence of sunlight. The word is a portmanteau of the words “volcanic”, “smog”, and “fog”.*

* Hawaii News Today