A grey-striped cat, feral in nature, viciously chewed on the corner of a rolled up newspaper bundle laying on the ground next to a fishing pole. A pair of agitated red-combed roosters strutted back and forth awaiting their turn should the feline get discouraged or frightened and dart off. The seasoned fisherman on the wooden pier had his sun-burned face focused elsewhere with two lines already submerged in the sea water below. Ahukini Landing seems to be a hidden gem from the visiting tourists. Unless…you meet an islander who shares the secrets of its allure. At first glance it appears to be just another scenic spot to gaze upon the powerful aquamarine waves as they splash against the jagged shore. This is Hanama’ula Bay where disciplined fishermen and women understand the fierce strength by standing safely beyond the ocean’s mighty grasp while reeling in the catch of the day. Warning signs are clearly posted along the short breakwater drawing attention to High Surf, Slippery Rocks, Sudden Drop Off, and Waves Break on Ledge. Glancing toward the massive concrete and broken beamed structure draws the attention of something magnificent now abandoned in a graveyard of ruins. The architectural skeleton, home for a band of scurrying crabs, tells no tales. It seems, once upon a time in 1920, this extinct dinosaur became the first port where inter-island boats and freighters could tie up directly. It was the beating heart of the island for supplies and visiting tourists. Eventually bigger ships needed more room, thus Nawiliwili Harbor was built down the coast near the lighthouse. Things were dismantled down to bare bones leaving the dilapidated overgrown site a secret hideaway for avid fishermen, adventurous divers, and an occasional film director.*
* “Donovan’s Reef”, starring John Wayne, was filmed on this pier at Ahukini Landing.