Living

Island Schedules are Maintained 

The schedule said cruise ships arrive shortly after dawn twice a week. That gave us reason enough to be an early-riser and catch a glimpse of the sun peeking over the horizon before the ship passed by the cliff. Since we set the timer on the coffeemaker to rouse the senses with a vanilla macadamia nut blend, Gerald ran down to the neighborhood bakery and grabbed a couple of oven-fresh cinnamon rolls as well. Minutes later, donning walking shoes and a light windbreaker, we joined others on the footpath to the point of Nawiliwili Harbor. We watched as the stars disappeared and the sky turned from black and grey to peach and orange. Amethyst waters faded into random shades of blue while earnest fishermen settled into their surroundings. Overhead the fluffy cloud bank drifted away revealing a bright yellow globe on the horizon. As if on cue, the waves began to clap in applause when the “Pride of America” burst through the open waters navigating the channel between the mountains and the bay, masterfully assisted by a marina tugboat. With the grace and elegance of a seasoned ballerina, she breezed on through to her island home in the port. 

Spouting Off For All to See

At the traffic circle in the road, an arrow pointed in one direction guiding curiosity-seekers to Spouting Horn. The scenic byway south of Poipu hugged the coastline for a short distance, passing impressive condo developments, sandy beaches, botanical gardens, and a golf course. Near the end of the road, Nature takes center stage, fueled by Hawaiian legend. Before the car door is slammed, the sound of crashing waves and heavy surf are heard. People are congregating along a chain link fence with digital cameras, cell phones, and selfie-sticks in hand. Beyond their shoulders is a water plume that could be nicknamed “Old Faithful #2” by the oohs and aahs ringing upward on the mist. If one snapshot isn’t enough, wait a minute for the next big swell. Take another photo; they’re free. When ocean salt water crashes into impenetrable lava rock, the natural blowhole produces a roaring sound with a hissing geyser that has been known to shoot 100 feet into the air. Awestruck like the others, snapshot after snapshot was taken. Down below, a tour boat could be seen drifting in on the tide for an up-close-and-personal experience worth writing home about. It seemed conditions were perfect for spouting off for all to see. The legend continues:
“Ancient Hawaiians believed this coastline was once guarded by a giant moo (lizard) named Kaikapu. Everyone was afraid of the moo because it would eat anyone who tried to fish or swim in the area. One day, a young boy named Liko entered the ocean to outwit the lizard. Kaikapu attacked him, but Liko thrust a sharp stick into her mouth, swam under the lava shelf, and escaped through a small hole to the surface. The moo followed Liko and got stuck in the lava tube. To this day, you can hear the lizard’s roar and see her breath spraying from the blowhole.” *

*Reference m.gohawaii.com 

Dustin Hoffman Was Here

“We closed at 5:00,” said the slender guy operating the outrigger canoe hut on the secluded bank of the Wailua River. He and his two buddies were already swigging back a couple of cold brews in the vacant dirt parking lot. “Do you mind if we look around?”, Gerald asked. “Sure, as long as it’s right in this area”, he responded as he swirled his arm in a circular motion. I walked up to the thatch-roofed hut to snap a shot of the resident cat stretched out on the steps. About that time, a frisky rooster crowed and began chasing a hen in hot pursuit before giving up and heading for an easier target. The off-duty guide came over and began to explain about these ancient cultural grounds known as Kamokila Hawaiian Village. “The natural habitat reflected island lifestyles from centuries ago.” He coaxed us beyond the bamboo fence topped with several pairs of walking shoes, pointing out the primitive structures on the horizon. Two flamboyant peacocks strutted across the grassy area while we were told, “This is where the film, ‘Outbreak’ was shot. Dustin Hoffman starred in it.” “I remember that movie”, I said with enthusiasm. “A lot of movies have been made on Kauai.” He went on to say, “In my younger years, I was an extra in ‘Jurassic Park’. I played one of the soldiers who crouched during the scene where the actors were running from the dinosaurs.” “Younger years?” I marveled then teased, “You aren’t allowed to say that when you’re not over the age of 30”. He blushed and admitted he was 34 years old, but it seemed a lifetime ago when he was only 16 living up the mountain in the Wailua homestead. On impulse, he graciously took us over to the river where its indescribable beauty reflected like an artist’s rendering of a priceless masterpiece. Not wishing to intrude any longer, we expressed our thanks for the private tour, got back in the car, and headed out. Wanderlust is a key element in the quest for adventure. One never knows what opportunities lie in the next turn in the road. Or who you will meet and the stories they will share. Mahalo. 

Hero in the Hard Hat

Jetting away to a tropical island in the middle of the South Pacific may be everyone’s idea of the perfect dream vacation, and it can be, until reality sets in. Power outages and antiquated water lines can be a bit of a challenge when the sand is sticking to your skin and you desperately need a clean shower. Repairs take time; patience is key. Learn to smile and “go with the flow” (no pun intended). Only two days ago I was wrinkling my nose at a man who stood under the open shower nozzles at the beach using a bar of Ivory soap. He proceeded to lather his entire body, including down his swim trunks. I walked away feeling as though I had intruded on his personal shower-time. Perhaps his accommodations were without power and water. Interesting perspective. In time, the diligent utility workers restored things to order in my little corner of the world and life in paradise had resumed. Keep in mind, heroes come in all shapes and sizes. Some even wear hard hats. 

What a Wonderful World

When you get a personal invitation and a table up front to hear a resident Kauaiian who garner’s the title of World Famous Ukulele Artist, you pay attention. Aldrine Guerrero, one of the creators of Underground Ukulele, is a thirty-something marvel on the Kanile’a stringed instrument. Aldrine has a goal to expand the next generation of ukulele players by combining a community of talented artists together with knowledge and technique through the internet. His unique style and nimble fingers have produced YouTube videos accumulating over seven and a half million views. In demand at concerts, Guerrero builds a friendship with the audience in every song. He finds a way of connecting you to the music through personal lyrics, old favorites, and fast-paced acoustics. Often his fingers move so fast, they become a blur. Then his smile says it all. He and his guitarist, Aaron Nakamura, performed at the Oasis on the Beach for two hours without pause leaving the audience to clap their hands in jubilation. My husband and I departed with a personalized CD, a snapshot, and a feeling of being in the presence of greatness. 

The Mystery of Spam

Since I’m visiting the island of Kauai, this post applies to a popular canned food product, not digital technology. My husband and I became friends with a couple who reflect the island spirit. We chatted for hours one evening, while whale-watching at the lighthouse. 
Interview with Lexi, a Kauaiian island native:

Me: I went to the grocery store the other day and saw an abundance of Spam on the shelves. The signage boasted Spam as a local favorite. Can you explain its popularity?

Lexi: (giggles) Well, it’s a very versatile staple to have in the pantry. One can of Spam goes a long way in preparing a meal. And it’s affordable. 

Me: How do you choose which flavor to buy? I’ve seen Jalapeño, Hickory Smoke, Hot and Spicy, Cheese, Bacon, and more. 

Lexi: There’s about a dozen choices, but I only get the Classic or Low Sodium. 

Me: Why is that?

Lexi: Tradition. I grew up on Spam Musubi. My husband did, too. He could eat that three times a day. 

Me: What is it?

Lexi: Spam Musubi is a quick and easy breakfast, lunch, or snack food. It’s made by slicing the Spam and frying it. You never want to eat it straight from the can without frying it first. It tastes better cooked. Just put it in the skillet and fry it so there’s a crispy edge to it. No oil, maybe a touch of butter, just a little bit. Then take some cooked sweet rice and press it into a block the same size as the meat. Put the Spam over the rice and wrap it together with nori dried seaweed. That’s all. You should try it, it’s good. 

Me: Where can I get it?

Lexi: Anywhere. It’s in the deli part at the grocery store or by the checkout in a convenience store. The mom and pop restaurants all sell it, too. 

Me: Are there other ways to eat Spam?

Lexi: Of course, Honey. We chop it up and put it in soups, in sushi, or use it in stir-fry, too. 

Me: I guess I’m going to have to try that, Lexi. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences with me. 

Lexi: Anytime, Sweetie. 
So there you have it. Spam is a favorite by tradition as well as its versatility. It all began during World War II when Spam was shipped to the GIs stationed in the South Pacific. It was flavorsome, filling, and didn’t spoil in the tropical climate simply because it required no refrigeration. The islanders found it appealing and its popularity soared. Today Hawaii consumes more Spam than any other state. It is definitely here to stay. 

The Welcome Wagon Whale Watchers

At first the white caps in the surf lure you into believing you see the curve of the massive sea creature flipping backward into the breach position before disappearing underwater. But it’s just a wave, you’re told by a native islander. “See that water spout on the horizon? That’s one. There’s another because they travel in pods this time of year. The species swim all the way from the icy waters of Alaska to mate, breed, and give birth in these warm cerulean waters. The males actually fight over a female until she chooses her mate. Then they become inseparable.” I learned to visually scan the open waters back and forth for signs of activity. I dared not glance away and miss something worth witnessing. The humpback whales did not disappoint. For an hour and a half, they frolicked near the surface as if performing for a group of tourists at Sea World. I saw an occasional breached back flip, storybook mermaid tail waves, and several fountain-like water spouts. It was as though the whales communicated in a sign language all their own. I learned a lot that day on the cliff. My new island friends, Lexi and Randall, appreciate the hypnotic lure and ancient history of this magical island called Kauai. Thanks to them and the stories they shared, I can appreciate it a little more as well. 

Dining Outside the Home: Joe’s on the Green in Kōloa, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Joe’s on the Green in Kōloa, Kauai. Located at the Kiahuna Golf Club, this casual open-air restaurant offers upscale taste with a picturesque view overlooking the challenging 18-hole golf course and an extensive gourmet menu that can almost leave you undecided. Almost. The Crab Cake Eggs Benedict is a decadent choice since the crunchy bite of seafood compliments the buttery lemon hollandaise sauce. A splash of hot pepper sauce gives two soft-boiled eggs a jumpstart that feels like a celebration in your mouth. Slowly savor each luscious bite. Then smile and nod in approval as Joe passes your table to greet all the guests. 

Trade Winds Soothe the Soul

Perched on the edge of a blue lagoon along the Coconut Coast sits the Kauai Beach Hostel where accommodations are a little different. Bamboo doors may divide sleeping quarters and open-air communal gathering spots encourage free expression. Just beyond the bike trail in a grove of coconut palms, the ground dips enough to receive a small cluster of young bohemians. Easily recognized by their folksy clothing, beaded jewelry, long hair, and external spontaneity, the word “hippie” comes to mind. The guys often toss a hacky sac into the air or walk a tight rope stretched between two tree trunks like a balance beam. The gals may sometimes sit cross-legged on the ground in transcendental fashion facing the sea. At first glance it appears as though the feminine curve of a back seems naked and bare. A second look confirms it. Dark straight hair spills over each shoulder falling forward as this gypsy time-traveler engages the group in lively conversation. From time to time a puff of smoke is seen floating on the breeze carrying a distinct aroma slightly familiar. Clasped hands are joined in love. Radiant sunbeams pour through swaying palm fronds as heads roll back and laughter fills the air. Life is good on this peaceful tropical island where trade winds soothe the soul.