living

On Golden Pond: The Nā Pali Coast

For the biggest white gold sandy beach in Kauai, offering a panoramic view from sea to coast, you must be determined to make the road trip real. Everything is fine until you hit the state park sign at the end of Highway 50. The arrow points west and promises to be nothing less than tough for another four miles. I have witnessed discouraged tourists reverse direction and head back to solid ground. I have also witnessed rental cars broken down. The old sugar cane road is unpaved, extremely bumpy with deep ruts, and a single lane trail of sand at best. And that’s if it hasn’t rained in awhile. But the adventurous spirit must know no bounds. You know you have arrived when the landscape beyond the windshield joins mountain and beach in an unforgettable breath-taking view. Forget cell phone coverage. Radio station signals are nil. And unless you park at the end, beyond Queen’s Pond, no facilities are available. On the endlessly long and wide beach, sweeping sand dunes and clusters of lava rock, are washed with powerful white-capped waves that roar like a coalition of male lions. And this is Paradise. You have arrived!

Dining Outside the Home: Kalaheo Café and Coffee Company in Kalaheo, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Kalaheo Café and Coffee Company in Kalaheo, Kauai. “Aloha. Please pick up a menu, choose a table where you wish to dine, and then come up to the counter to place your order. You’re in coffee country now”, chirped an energetic waitress in corked platform heels. From the ship-lapped walls to the peak of the cathedral ceiling, this upcountry café featured oodles of local art. And the aromas kick-started my taste buds for a hearty breakfast. The House Specialty boasted the “Bagel Benny” in a single or double serving. My heartstrings were pulling me toward the bakery items where the griddle wafted the essence of vanilla buttermilk pancakes. Add fresh fruit and two slices of meat. Yes, please!

Delta Dawn Tug-of-War

Warm ocean waters dance with a cool mountain stream at the tidal mouth of the bay. Unusual, yet captivating. This tug-of-war between salt water and fresh water changes the landscape of the beach every single day leaving one to wonder if the results were sculpted by a gigantic sandman while you were sleeping. Be aware. The waves from the sea in this spot are driven by the surf and the rainwater from the wettest mountain range on the island is powered by gravity. Oftentimes, the point where the two collide creates a momentary whirlpool. Entertaining to watch before the freshwater current rides the waves back out to sea. The bank is no different than a sand castle. It may leave you with a false sense of security believing the beach is more solid than it appears. One step can crumble the wall like squeezing the water out of a sponge. Another may leave you off balance sinking up to your knees in a quicksand-like soft bottom. Either way, it’s an enigma worth beholding. 

Not Your Ordinary Message on the Beach

Torn from a page in a spiral notebook was a handwritten note in purple ink. It read, 
“Dear Love, You are beautiful. If the shoe fits, wear it. 😇 This is for you straight from Heaven. God Bless You Always! 😇❤️😇”

The jewel-toned sandals were an extraordinary treasure that magically appeared overnight. Could they be left there by an angelic sea nymph? The crescent-shaped bay, although public, seems like a private beach for leisurely walks, sand castle creations, paddle boarding, and sunbathing. Sometimes the water is as calm as a lake; other times the waves are strong enough to make you stumble. The sand is sugar-fine, raked smooth, and gentle on the feet. Once in awhile, sea shells and broken coral appear overnight to remind you the tide changes daily leaving unexpected treasures behind. Like today. The inner child can hardly contain the curiosity and discovery of something left behind after high tide. At the end of the beach where the cliff meets the bank, random driftwood and polished sea shells, added to the mysterious appearance of a thoughtful treasure. Was I the gracious recipient of Cinderella’s beach slippers, you wonder? Not this time. Alas, I don’t wear a size 7. 

Quiet Zone: Do Not Disturb 

“It was like walking through a library,” I mused. Two minutes earlier Gerald and I took a shortcut through a coconut grove of vacationers. We just finished our daily routine of clocking miles along the sandy seashore. Needing shade and a drink of cold water, we made a beeline from the beach to the nearest coconut grove. Under the shade of palm fronds, chair after chair of resort loungers were filled, facing the sea for an up close and personal oceanfront view. Except for one thing. Every chair occupied seemed to accommodate a reading enthusiast. Heads were bowed deep in thought with attention focused on Kindle Fires, paperback novels, cell phones, daily newspapers, and glossy magazines. Not a single person noticed us until I said, “Oh, that breeze feels nice.” Then one clearly annoyed woman tore herself from the book she was reading, threw me a stern look, pursed her lips, and practically raised her index finger to her lips. (Sshh) The message in that steely gaze commanded silence. At that exact moment the feeling hit me. “It’s like walking through a library.” Three steps later Gerald and I set foot on the smooth walkway leading to the spectacular outdoor pool where adults were laughing, children were splashing, and the air was filled with music and glee. We had exited the Quiet Zone. 

Mermaid Tears at Glass Beach 

One can search for treasure without ever setting foot offshore if you believe in the legend of Mermaid Tears. Long ago, when pirates ran amuck and terrorized the sea, they ruthlessly pillaged cargo ships. Countless glass jars, perfume vials, wine flagons, and beverage bottles were cast overboard to lighten the load. Over time, the discarded glass became broken, weathered, smooth, and frosted in appearance. The edges were rounded and polished as the glass was tossed between the saltwater waves and the fine sandy beaches. Eventually the sea glass washed up and down the coast by longshore currents and ended up beached. What about the mermaid legend, you ask? Well, every pirate ship has a gangplank. Whenever a captured sailor was forced by a raider to walk the plank, he helplessly plunged into the water below and drowned. As mermaid tears were shed at their untimely fate, they magically turned into polished sea glass in hues of blue, green, amber, and red. Glass Beach, in Hanapepe Bay, is covered with thousands of colorful sea glass pebbles. Because of the rough waves and rocky shore, beach combing is permitted in this remote area, but swimming should be avoided. 

WaterMan Versus Raging Sea

“It’s probably Laird Hamilton. No one else would dare go out and surf in waves that high today,” the waitress calmly surmised. We watched as if hypnotized by the lone surfer riding the massive waves of the North Shore. At times the sea acted like a bucking broncho, changing directions with powerful strength. And yet Hamilton, the standup paddling surfer, never succumbed to the superior force of Nature. In fact, upon closer scrutiny, a high-powered jet ski seemed to run parallel perfectly poised at the end of the surf to drop a line. As if on cue, the two connected and the waterman was hauled back out to another monstrous wall of waves. There the process was repeated over and over again. We must have watched the systematic series of actions for almost an hour, completely mesmerized by these well synchronized human machines. No doubt we were witnessing one of the best surfers in the world who made danger look like child’s play. Until you see a man freely standing on a surfboard, it’s impossible to judge the height of these wave banks. Only then do you witness the scale of Man versus Sea. Truth be told, thresholds can reach up to 30 feet making the surf extremely dangerous for inexperienced surfers. The North Shore trek did not disappoint. Beauty was in the eye of the beholder. 

Dining Outside the Home: Mediterranean Gourmet in Ha’ena, Kauai 

Dining Outside the Home: Mediterranean Gourmet in Ha’ena, Kauai. This spectacular restaurant, with an endless view of the ocean, sits on Kauai’s North Shore. It’s claim-to-fame, and current property owner, is none other than the 1970s Latin Bombshell known by only one name: Charo. You may remember her younger days by her curvy body and seductive laugh every time she shook her shoulders and purred, “Cuchi-cuchi!” Charo was a gifted singer, exotic dancer, and talented guitarist who appeared on Johnny Carson countless times as well as “Rowan and Martin’s Laugh-In”. She also guest-starred on the “Love Boat” series. Although her signature restaurant is no longer operating, The Mediterranean Gourmet has now become a hotspot where Charo’s tradition of Hula Dance performances continue weekly. The menu specializes in Lebanese entrées, the ambience remains, and the fact that Charo lives near enough to stop by keeps the charisma alive. 

Lights. Camera. Action!

A grey-striped cat, feral in nature, viciously chewed on the corner of a rolled up newspaper bundle laying on the ground next to a fishing pole. A pair of agitated red-combed roosters strutted back and forth awaiting their turn should the feline get discouraged or frightened and dart off. The seasoned fisherman on the wooden pier had his sun-burned face focused elsewhere with two lines already submerged in the sea water below. Ahukini Landing seems to be a hidden gem from the visiting tourists. Unless…you meet an islander who shares the secrets of its allure. At first glance it appears to be just another scenic spot to gaze upon the powerful aquamarine waves as they splash against the jagged shore. This is Hanama’ula Bay where disciplined fishermen and women understand the fierce strength by standing safely beyond the ocean’s mighty grasp while reeling in the catch of the day. Warning signs are clearly posted along the short breakwater drawing attention to High Surf, Slippery Rocks, Sudden Drop Off, and Waves Break on Ledge. Glancing toward the massive concrete and broken beamed structure draws the attention of something magnificent now abandoned in a graveyard of ruins. The architectural skeleton, home for a band of scurrying crabs, tells no tales. It seems, once upon a time in 1920, this extinct dinosaur became the first port where inter-island boats and freighters could tie up directly. It was the beating heart of the island for supplies and visiting tourists. Eventually bigger ships needed more room, thus Nawiliwili Harbor was built down the coast near the lighthouse. Things were dismantled down to bare bones leaving the dilapidated overgrown site a secret hideaway for avid fishermen, adventurous divers, and an occasional film director.*
* “Donovan’s Reef”, starring John Wayne, was filmed on this pier at Ahukini Landing.